Horse Treck to Stuttgart

A Note of Thanks:

We met many lovely friendly helpful people during our eleven day treck to Stuttgart and back. Really too many to list all of them here.
The people listed here are those to whom we are specially thankful for giving us more than the usual help and friendship.
To all of those mentioned here we say a very big, "Thank you." We look forward to seeing you all again.

Barbara & Juergen Feistle-Kopold, Hegnenbach
Fa. Karl Haeussler, Kutschfahrten, Hauptstr. 63, 89129 Oellingen
Gert & Nicole Czeschner, Reitstall Czeschner, 73345 Hohenstadt
Gasthof Sonne, Hauptstr. 29, 73345 Hohenstadt
Fa. Woisetschlaeger Wanderreitstation, Tiefenbachtal, Forststr. 16, 72622 Nuertingen
Lisa, Dirk & Niklas, Holzgerlingen
Gaestehaus zur Saege, Saegeweg 77, 71263 Weil der Stadt
Reiterverein Nuertingen, Im Tiefenbachtal 47/1, 72622 Nuertingen
Hotel Vetter, Marienstr. 59, 72622 Nuertingen
Heinrich Schmitz, Heinrich Schmitz Painthorses, Gartenstr. 44, 73345 Hohenstadt

Last but by no means least, a big, "Thank you," to Frau Nadja Aswad from the Augsburger Allgemeine Newspaper for the excellent article she published in that newspaper about our little adventure. The article is naturally in German but is nevertheless reproduced here for those of you who feel they can understand it or who just want to look at the stunning photos of Heike and me on horse-back !!!

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Day 1 - Saturday the 22nd May 2010 : Gersthofen – Hegnenbach ca. 35 km

Gersthofen – Langweid – Achsheim – Affaltern – Emersacker - Hegnenbach
Start 09:50 End 16:30

For the first time in many weeks is was HOT! Two days ago we had just 10 degrees Celcius and now over 20.

We know this stretch already from previous trecks. There are many asphalt and gravel paths. Nevertheless, we made good progress. The horses are in good form. The hoof shoes sit well, thanks to the split pins I bought for Nicco's rear Epic Easyboots.
I noticed that the horses do not drink much when they are hot and sweaty. They wait a little until they have cooled down enough that drinking cold water does not cause cramps. Clever.
We spent the evening in Hegnenbach with Barbara and Juergen Feistle Kopold where GB Bond and Nicco spent their childhood as young stallions. It was very pleasant. It is always pleasant to visit them, and the horses are always welcome. We slept the night in Streitheim at the house of Heike's Mother and her husband.

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Day 2 - Sunday the 23rd May 2010 : Hegnenbach – Oellingen ca. 45 km

Hegnenbach - Fultenbach – Waldkirch – Moenstetten – Schnuttenbach – Offingen – Reisensburg – Riedhausen – Niederstotzingen – Asselfingen - Oellingen
Start 10:00 End 20:00

Shit day! We were late starting, we were too slow and the route we chose took us over a long detour. And, it was HOT again.

We tried as much as possible to ride the most direct route buth most of the paths were gravel, tar or asphalt, and just not suitable. It looks as if I shall just have to accept the sometimes the best paths are the roads of cycle paths with grass borders where we can trot.

Despite arriving in Oelling rather late, we were greeted by the family Haeussler with a hearty welcome. They were very friendly and helpful, and took great care that we and the horses were well looked after and comfortable. We sat together later and had a very pleasant time of it. I received my first ever home-made german cider, which tasted very good. Very good indeed. Even Heike admitted that it was an excellent brew.
There were no guest-rooms available in Oelling, due to the fact that there are no guest-rooms in the small village of Oelling at all. Therefore, we slept in our Bivouak with our Bivi-bags and air mattrasses. OK, at least we know now how not to erect a Bivouak in the future. It was cold and damp in the early hours and we did not sleep well. However, we woke the next morning in the best of spirits.
Herr Haeussler gave us a guided tour of his farm where we saw, amongst others, his two Schwarzwaelder Fuechse and two Friesen Stallions. Beautiful horses which he uses to pull his covered wagon and wedding coach.

Unfortunately, I found that GB Bond had two small pressure wounds from his new saddle. He has put on so much muscle in the last weeks that the saddle does not fit 100 percent any more. Herr Haeussler gave me some petroleum jelly to put on the wounds. We shall see if it helps. I am going to set the saddle a little bit further back on GB's back which may also help.

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Day 3 - Monday the 24th May 2010

Oellingen – Hohenstadt ca. 40 km
Oellingen – Nerenstetten – Boerslingen – Neenstetten – Weidenstetten – Ettlenschiess – Urspring – Reutti – Nellingen - Hohenstadt
Start 11:30 End 20:00

As I put GB Bond's hoof shoes on this morning I saw that one of the Renegades has a slightly damaged wire, probably due to wear and tear. It will hold a little while longer so no need to worry about a replacement yet.

After enjoying a good breakfast with family Haeussler we packed our worldly goods together and rode off with the intention of finding the best paths we could, and just seeing how far we got. There was to be no stress today!

It was hot again today, and we are both sun-burned already. We drink several liters of water each day and let the horses drink and graze as often as possible.
We have changed our routine in so far as we dismount and lead the horses through the towns and villages and over ashpalt roads where we would have to walk them. This way we can use every possibility to trot over grass paths. It is quicker to lead the horses than to ride them at the walk anyway and has the added advantages that they keep fresh longer and we do not become stiff. An allround good idea from Heike.

In this way we made much better progress and had some fun aswell. Unfortunately, Nicco is going through a rebelious phase which got thoroughly on Heike's nerves today. Later, as we rode along a narrow path next to some railway lines an ICE train came from behind and set the horses in panic. OK, the train was damned fast, damned loud, and only three meters away. Luckily there were no injuries or losses and we were quickly able to quieten the horses and bring them under control. Twenty minutes later it was as if nothing had happened.

The paths here are much better with long forest and country paths where we can trot and even gallop a little. The country-side is wonderful. It really is a pleasure to treck here.

We arrived in Hohenstadt tired but in good humour to be greeted by Gert and Nicole Czeschner in their stables Reitstall Czeschner where we found a large grass field waiting for GB Bond and Nicco with extra feed and water and everything that a horse could wish for, and that for just 7.50 Euros per horse. Great.

We were sent off to find Silke at the Gasthof Sonne where we had a fantastic meal with pleasant conversation. The guest-room was very comfortable is a little expensive at 70.00 Euros

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Day 4 - Tuesday 25th May 2010

Hohenstadt – Nuertingen ca. 25 km
Hohenstadt – Niedlingen – Bissingen – Owen (Auen) – Nuertingen (Thru' the Tiefenbach Tal)
Start: 11.00 End 20.30

We have found, in the Reitstall Czeshner where we met Gert and Nicole, an absolute top professional, impeccable example of how a riding stables should be run. We received everything that we could wish for for a super price.
Really, we wanted to leave around 9.00 o'clock but, as always, were held up by pleasant people and interessing conversations. We eventually rode away at 11.00 o'clock.

Our route to Nuertingen led us through Wiesensteig, Neidlingen, Ochsenwang, Bissingen und Owen (Auen), and over the top of the Schwaebischen Alb with 950 meters. As we (actually I) took a wrong turn somewhere, the actual distance we rode is difficult to determine, but I guess it to be about 25 km. Unfortunately, most of it over very steep ashphalt roads and therefore mostly at the walk or on foot leading the horses. The country-side is again wonderful. We rode from 430 meters up to 950 meters and back down again through mountaineous and forested scenery. Inbetween times we descended 200 meters into and climbed back out of several picturesque valleys. GB Bond and Nicco gave a super performance today, and were nonetheless still not over-taxed.

The Schwaebische Alb is great for holidays. We are considering driving the horses here with the horse-box for a week to make daily hacks and explore this beautiful country.

We called Alexandra und Franz Woisetwschlaeger in Nuertingen very late to find accommodation but they showed great patience and helpfulness in finding us a grass field and rooms in their own house for the night. Alex and Franz are very helpful and friendly and we wish them both every success in building up their Trecking overnight accommodation business. We spent a very entertaining couple of hours with Jupp von Room in his pub lounge 'Room 5' just around the corner.

I discovered today that one of GB's hoof shoes is so very worn at the toe that it must be replaced soon. In addition, the worn wire is becoming worse and one or two velcro straps are giving up the ghost. In defence of these pieces I must say that they have already covered 700 km, which is a pretty astounding achievement.

Although we have four hard days riding behind us, Heike and I are surprised every day how fit the horses are at the day's end. They have a short spell early afternoons when they would be somewhere else, but otherwise in super form. They have lost a few kilos weight and are now more muscular than ever before, and have incredible stamina. People, even horse people, underestimate horses.

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Day 5 - Wednesday 26th May 2010

Nuertingen – Holzgerlingen ca. 30 km
Nuertingen – Oberensingen – Groetzingen – Aichtal – Aich – Neuenhaus – Waldenbuch – Schoenaich - Holzgerlingen
Start 10:00 End 18:00

We set off a little earlier today, we are becoming better from day to day with getting up, packing and brushing and tacking up the horses

The horses are in a good mood, the hoof shoes are holding up and Heike and I are in good form. The country-side is very pleasant here, hilly with much forest and open fields. Unfortunately, there is still not much by way of grassy paths, only asphalt roads and cycle paths.
Something that I really do not understand, or at least for which I have no understanding, is that there is a foot and cycle path which is often the only way to travel from town to town without riding along the roads, and that on some stretches of this path it is forbidden to ride. Theoretically therefore, it is impossible in Baden Wuerttemberg to treck with horses. Notwithstanding, there is evidence enough along the way of the passing of horses to see with how much esteem this statute is held.

As an experiment, this treck is already a big success. Both horse and man have learned much. The horses try periodically to turn back in the direction of home, but it is not a serious attempt. They save and spare their energy and strength, and use every opportunity to eat and drink that presents itself. In this way they come through the day fit and with reserve. Heike and I have learned to arise earlier, to pack, brush and tack up quicker; and also to use every opportunity to trot. We have also learned that booking overnight stops before the treck is neither useful nor necessary.
It is so. Firsly, when one has a particular goal or target for that day, one is automatically under stress as soon as any delay or problem arises. Secondly, everywhere we go we find farmers, riding stables or just horse-friendly people where one can stop for a night. This afternoon, for example, we hit the jackpot. Just before entering Holzgerlinge we decided to look here for somewhere to stop. At that moment a lady riding a Islander came along so I asked her if she knew of a suitable place. She replied without a moment's hesitation, "Yes, with us." Not quite sure what she meant, Heike asked if she was talking about the horses or us whereupon she replied that she had meant us. Furthermore, she called the chairman of the Holzgerlingen Riding Club and arranged for a field for GB and Nicco for the night. She gave us directions and told us that she and her husband would pick us up later. After we had cared for the horses Lisa and Dirk picked us up, as promised, and took us to their lovely home on a hill overlooking the village. We spent a most convivial evening with them both and Heike and I were left with the impression that we had found new friends.

A strap from one of GB's Renegade shoes must be replaced at the next opportunity, and I tie the rain-coat onto the saddle now in a long flexible 'sausage-roll' instead of a short bulky one as it sits much better and does not bounce around in trot or gallop.

Nicco is bringing his rebelious phase to a climax since two days now, in as much as he refuses to go on the grass borders of the paths and roads where we could trot, but instead remains steadfastly in the middle of the asphalt paths where we can only walk. GB also stays in the middle of the path when he can, but the problem is not so prominent with him. This make Heike pretty mad and I wish we could find a solution.

And, leaving the best until the last, we have learned never again to give the horses grain feed in the mornings. It is absolutely no fun for beast nor man to fight hour after hour to maintain a steady, quiet pace. Apart from which the horses become nervous and excited in heavy traffic which is the last thing we need. Added to which, plenty of grass at night and some extra feed evenings is more than enough for 30 to 40 km a day riding.

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Day 6 - Thursday 27th May 2010

Holzgerlingen – Weil der Stadt ca. 30 km
Holzgerlingen – Ehningen – Aidlingen – Schafhausen – Weil der Stadt
Start 09:30 End 15:00

After a pleasant breakfast with Lisa we made an early (at least early for us) start.

One thing bothers me every now and then - I just do not seem able to fix Heike's Saddlebags so that they do not slip. It is not bad but looks a unprofessional.

We have two sets of Versa Pack Saddlebags and Hornbags from Hamilton in America. One set we bought from 'Horse and Dog' which quickly lost the pvc lining and were no longer water-proof. The second set we received as consolation for the failure of the first. We pack everything in rubbish bags and Ziplock bags anyway - just to be on the safe side. Even if the saddlebags are not water-proof, they are the best we have found to date. They are roomy, have many practical pockets, and each bag is detachable and has straps so that it can be used as a rucksack. Shame that Hamilton have gone into bankruptcy and that the bags are not produced anymore.

Somewhere along the way yesterday we stopped to do some shopping and a man spoke to us (as so many people do). He apparantly knew what he was talking about and was fascinated by our treck and our experiences. He introduced himself as Stephan Guenther from Waldenbuch, a saddle designer and producer of treeless saddles. Today, 20 km further on, by the sport center in Holzgerlingen, we met him again. It was somehow surprising.

As always, the horses are in top form except for Nicco still refusing to go on the grass borders. I wish most sincerely that I had some advice for Heike but I just do not see what the real problem is. It will become clear sometime. One must sometimes give a problem enough room and peace to find it's own solution.

After Heike having seen a footpath sign yesterday, 'Nuertingen - Weil der Stadt,' we do not need the compass and map anymore. We ride somewhat more relaxed now. The country-side is very pleasant with many hills, valleys, and forest. The footpath leads us mostly along asphalt or gravel paths but every now and then we find a place where we can trot, anyway, we are not in a hurry. As it is the middle of the week there are very few people on these paths and we can enjoy the peace and quiet. For the first time since we have been hacking out we are able to ride next to each other without the horses winding each other up, so we can speak with each other without shouting which was not possible before. Not that we speak much. We rather enjoy the company and just being there together.

A couple of hours short of Weil der Stadt we saw a sign: sraight on to Weil der Stadt 12 km which pointed to an asphalt path (what else?) To the right the sign said Weil der Stadt 11 km and pointed to a grass path. Very seductive. I opted for the nice grass path which unfortunately, after just two hundred meteres, turned into a very steep, rocky, slippery and narrow climb. Obvious wasn't it? GB had a problem to stay on his feet but with his small hooves and my experience we made some progress. Heike and Nicco behind us though had a different experience as Nicco slipped with both forefeet and could not regain his balance at first. Heike had a shock and we had to abort the climb. However, turning around and going back down was now impossible. Luckily, there was a forest path (asphalt naturally) which we were able to get on to. It took us in the complete opposite direction but, after about half an hour, we were able to ride down to where we were an hour or so before. Then we saw a sign: sraight on to Weil der Stadt 12 km which pointed to an asphalt path. To the right the sign said Weil der Stadt 11 km and pointed to a grass path. Sounds familier? Heike looked at the sign and then at me and asked, 'Which way do you want to go darling?'
'Ah ha,' I thought. I know this facial expression, and pointed obediently to the asphalt path. Fate.

We arrived in Weil der Stadt without further adventures and stopped two ladies at the border to the town to ask if they could give us direction to Saegeweg where out guest-house was. They looked at us somewhat amused and told us we were already there.

After six days and ca. 205 kilometers we had arrived at our destination.

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Day 7 - Friday 28th May 2010

Weil der Stadt

Our friends Dagmar, Anja and Andrea had booked a room for us in the Gaestehaus 'Zur Saege' with a field for the horses. Our room looked out over the field so that we could keep an eye on them. Super.
The gaestehaus is simple and plain but clean and friendly. The owner, Ingo Duerr, and his wife bake very good cakes! The beer is good and Ingo has a super choice of Schnapps. We were well looked after!
We spent the evening with Anja and Dagmar in an italian restaurant in Weil der Stadt where we ate very good pizza. I think I must have had one or two beers too many as I became tired very quickly. Heike too.

I ordered the replacement straps for GB's Renegade hoof shoes and wires for Nicco's shoes by Anja Jaeckel (www.hufschuh-verleih.de) today, and hope that the packet will arrive tomorrow.
Our electric trecking fence works well and is very easy to erect. The horses are in good form and have plenty of grass. "Happy horses."

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Day 8 - Saturday 29th May 2010

Weil der Stadt

Today we drove with Dagmar and Anja to bring aa so-called "Problem" horse to Zudith Mauss (www.judith-mauss.de) to correct some bad behaviour caused by dominance and lack of respect. Unfortunately, Judith refused to help on the basis of her opinion that even once she had "cured" the horse, there was no-one who could continue to work with him in such a manner to ensure his continued good behaviour. We drove home disappointed. A real shame.

This evening we will drive to Gerling to the Grimmler Alm - a restaurant modelled upon a mountain hut.

The hoof shoe replacements arrived at 10:30 this morning and there is everything there that I need. A big "Thank you" to Anja Jaeckel. The most difficult part will be to exchange the wire in Nicco's Easyboot. Luckily, Dagmar's husband has a workshop where I am sure to find the necessary tools.

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Day 9 - Sunday 30th May 2010

Weil der Stadt – Holzgerlingen ca. 30 km
Start 10:00 End 14:00

As soon as the horses noticed that we were homeward bound, which took about two paces, they wanted to run run run. What took us five and a half hours last week, took us just four hours today.

It was a little rainy today so the paths were relatively soft. We were able to trot much more than last week. Some of GB's new hoof shoe straps are too long and rub his hooves, but it is not too bad.

I spoke to Manfred Schwizer, the Chairman of the Holzgerlingen Riding Club, and he gave permission for us to use another of their fields for our horses tonight. We only have to wait for a couple of hourse until Lisa and Dirk pick us up. But it is not a problem, there are many pleasant people here that we have plenty of company who want to know all about the horse, the treck, and our equipment. They are also very helpful.

GB has developed a very small sore on his back left Crown. Obviously, from one of the new straps. I shall have to control this very carefully before we set off tomorrow.

I made a note in my diary yesterday, "www.heckengaeule.de" but I do not know anymore who told me about it. It does not matter, the website is interesting and there are also some interesting links.

As Lisa picked us up later and dropped us of infront of their house, a passing driver stopped his car, wound his windown down and cried, "What are you doing here?" It was Stephan Guenther again, for the third time. He told us that he lives in the same street and known Lisa and Dirk. The world is really a very small place. Though, I must say, I do not believe in coincidence.

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Day 10 - Monday 31 May 2010

Holzgerlingen – Nuertingen ca. 35 km
via Schoenaich - Waldenbuch (Ritter Sport) - Neuenhaus - Aich - Groetzingen - Oberenzingen
Start 10:00 End 17:00

GB's saddle sore are causing me a few worries, but I cannot change it now and will just have to be as careful as possible so that it doesn't become worse. Some of the Renegade hoof shoe straps from Anja Jaeckel are definitely too long so that I shall have to speak to her when we are back at home. Otherwise, everthing with the horses and equipment is in order.

The horses know perfectly well that we are on our way home and walk much quicker. We covered this part of the route today in one hour less than we needed last week. It is also interesting to see how GB and Nicco know the way even better than I do and it occurred to me why GB is constantly looking around instead of concentrating on the path infront of him; he constantly memorizes the route so that he knows where he is if we are ever there again. I know too that he never forgets. I have decided to give him more freedom to look around as much as he likes in the future.

We want to try another stopping place in Nuertingen tonight and just started to ride up to different likely looking places and ask. At the second attempt, at the Nuertingen Riding Club, we struck lucky. Once again we found really freindly and helpful people who took great care to ensure we had a paddock with feed, straw and hay. One lady even brought the straw and hay, and before we could say, 'Thank you,' she had even spread the straw out for the horses to sleep on. Another lady drove us to a hotel in the city later but not before the entire stables had come out to the paddock to have a look at GB and Nicco and ask the usual stream of questions. Very freindly.

The Hotel Vetter is a little expensive but absolutely OK. We took a walk into the city center in the evening and found the incredible Nuertinger Keller, where the service, food and drinks were excellent. The Keller is also very original 16th / 17th century and very well done. I could imagine it being a huge success in London.

Heike and I have chosen a very promising route back over the Schwaebische Alb for tomorrow, using our new hiking map

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Day 11 - Tuesday 1 June 2010

Nuertingen – Drachenstein ca. 25 km
via Owen (Auen) - Brucken - Spitzige Fells (780 m) - Schopflocher Moor (812 m) - Hasental - Nasenloch
Start 09:30 End 19:30

Today we learned something new. When one is on a long treck, one must accept that something unexpected could happen. Actually, I expected that we would arrive in Drachenstein about 16:00 but but something happened about which I can now be philosophical but which, at the time, made me very disappointed with myself. But, first of all the pleasant part of the day.

The route we chose yesterday was indeed beautiful, with mountaineous country-side and forest and fields and even some grassy paths. It was somethimes very hot but sometimes also cool, and we had a half-hour real rainfall which was most refreshing.

We wanted to ride to Drachenstein close by Hohenstadt, and overnight there by Heinrich Schmitz at his Painthorse Ranch. About 16:00 we stumbled across a path with a sign "Drachenstein 4 km". It couldn't be better could it? This narrow cycle path led us through two fields surrounded by a low electric fence. No problem. Only, there was a herd of young bulls which found us very interesting in the field to the right. The bulls ran up to us at full tilt which frightened the hell out of GB and Nicco. Unfortunately, I didn't see until too late that Heike had dismounted to lead Nicco by the field. The horses panicked worse than with the ICE train and Nicco broke free, jumped over the electric fence to the left, and ran away. I was able to calm GB relatively quickly and rode slowly back along the path searching for Nicco, GB calling all the time. Nicco heard him and returned of his own accord some five minutes later. However, during his flight he had destroyed one hoof shoe, lost one rein and a saddle bag containing our horse blankets. GB had also given one worn hoof shoe the "coup de grâce". We thought about trying to bring the horses by the field again but quickly realised that they were too tired and shocked and we were neither quiet nor patient enough to be able to achieve anything more today. We found another route to Drackenstein, Heike at first on foot and later riding with a lead rope as rein when she and Nicco were sufficiently recovered.

GB cannot be ridden a hundred kilometers without his hoof shoes and Nicco cannot be ridden at all on asphalt or stony ground without his hoof shoes, and we could not wait another two days for replacements to be sent to Drachenstein, so we decided to stop the treck here.

Heinrich Schmitz and his wife were very helpful and very friendly. Out accommodation was excellent and, despite arriving so late, they brought food and drink and a bottle of schnapps (for medicinal purposes you understand). Heinrich very kindly drove us home the next day to save me having to take the bus and train to Augsburg and drive back with the camper and horse box to collect Heike, GB and Nicco.

We had ridden ca. 295 kilometers and were on the road with GB and Nicco for 69 hours over eleven days and rode right across the 950 meter high mountaineous Schwaebische Alb. The treck was a resounding success in every respect, despite the disappointing end. We now have to desensitize the horses to cows and bulls and sudden noises like ICE trains for example! Acquiring replacement hoof shoes, blankets and reins will prove much easier.

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last updated on 6 August 2010